I have a couple of questions Russ ........ I'll do my best to answer your questions.
1. How do you get your feet to stay put on the surf board ............. 99% of the surfers use surf wax. Back when I started surfing in 1957 we all used the same type of wax that our mothers and grandmothers used when they made jam and jelly to seal the jars - paraffin wax. Paraffin wax was extremely hard which made it difficult to rub on a surfboard; however, it was the only option. Because it was so hard to rub onto a surfboard most surfers melted it and dripped it on their boards. In the 60s a famous surfer of that era [Mike Doyle] developed a wax that was made exclusively for surfboards. Surf wax is soft and rubs on boards easily so melting it is no longer necessary. Surf wax is made differently for different areas where the water is warmer or colder depending on the area and time of the year. Warm water wax is hard - cold water wax is soft. Doyle was not only a surfer he was what is known as an all around waterman. I highly recommend reading his book "Morning Glass".
http://www.amazon.com/Morning-Glass-Adv ... 0962941824
I would think it would be slippery with the water ................. Without wax it would be.
2. Why do some surfers surf left to right and others surf right to left? Is there a reason why ............ Yes, there are a few reasons. Surfers who's skills aren't all that good can surf better going in a certain direction so they almost always surf in that direction. Average to above average surfers are able to surf [almost] equally good going either way so they go the direction that will give them the best/longest ride. There are surf locations that waves only break in one direction. The most famous California spot is known as Rincon. In the photo below you can see why people surfing there only go right.
Surfers who make their living by surfing [almost always] go either direct equally well. In contest surfing surfers go in the direction that will give them the most points.
3. Have you ever encountered a shark in your surfing adventures .............. I know there have been sharks under me and on all sides from time to time; however, I have only actually seen one once. On that occasion I was surfing with a friend about 10 miles south of California's Point Conception. We were surfing, in my opinion, the best wave in California - It's known as "Rights and Lefts" - the only way to get there, at that time, was by boat. When we saw a 15 foot blue shark cruising in and around the surf break we left the water ASAP. The trouble we had was we were on shore and had to get back to the boat. We gave the shark an hour then we paddled back to the boat as fast as possible.
1. How do you get your feet to stay put on the surf board ............. 99% of the surfers use surf wax. Back when I started surfing in 1957 we all used the same type of wax that our mothers and grandmothers used when they made jam and jelly to seal the jars - paraffin wax. Paraffin wax was extremely hard which made it difficult to rub on a surfboard; however, it was the only option. Because it was so hard to rub onto a surfboard most surfers melted it and dripped it on their boards. In the 60s a famous surfer of that era [Mike Doyle] developed a wax that was made exclusively for surfboards. Surf wax is soft and rubs on boards easily so melting it is no longer necessary. Surf wax is made differently for different areas where the water is warmer or colder depending on the area and time of the year. Warm water wax is hard - cold water wax is soft. Doyle was not only a surfer he was what is known as an all around waterman. I highly recommend reading his book "Morning Glass".
http://www.amazon.com/Morning-Glass-Adv ... 0962941824
I would think it would be slippery with the water ................. Without wax it would be.
2. Why do some surfers surf left to right and others surf right to left? Is there a reason why ............ Yes, there are a few reasons. Surfers who's skills aren't all that good can surf better going in a certain direction so they almost always surf in that direction. Average to above average surfers are able to surf [almost] equally good going either way so they go the direction that will give them the best/longest ride. There are surf locations that waves only break in one direction. The most famous California spot is known as Rincon. In the photo below you can see why people surfing there only go right.
Surfers who make their living by surfing [almost always] go either direct equally well. In contest surfing surfers go in the direction that will give them the most points.
3. Have you ever encountered a shark in your surfing adventures .............. I know there have been sharks under me and on all sides from time to time; however, I have only actually seen one once. On that occasion I was surfing with a friend about 10 miles south of California's Point Conception. We were surfing, in my opinion, the best wave in California - It's known as "Rights and Lefts" - the only way to get there, at that time, was by boat. When we saw a 15 foot blue shark cruising in and around the surf break we left the water ASAP. The trouble we had was we were on shore and had to get back to the boat. We gave the shark an hour then we paddled back to the boat as fast as possible.
