Tips, tutorials and discussion of photography, cameras and accessories.
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This isn't exactly related to this thread, but might be of interest. It got posted today.

http://www.slrphotographyguide.com/blog ... -tips.html
Reka
CS3 on Vista, Nikon D40 (50mm1.4, 18-55mm and 70-300mm VR) and FIREFOX
ImageMOM

My galleries <------------------> My blog
When I started photography again, with a digital SLR, I discovered the photomerge software and started to give it a go. I read a few articles online and stuck to the 'rule' - use the equivalent of a 'standard' 50mm lens to avoid distortion. After all, taken to its logical conclusion, you wouldn't make a panorama with an extreme wide-angle lens (a fish-eye) because you'd never be able to stitch them together, so there must be something of this nature on a 'normal' wide-angle lens (like the equivalent of 24-28mm). You'd need a much higher number of telephoto shots to do the same job, and they have a distortion of their own, but I don't think you will get any problems.

Of course, experimentation is so easy with a dSLR - so I'm starting to try out different focal lengths. Personally, I still find the "50mm" equivalent the best.

Other 'rules' I stick with.....

Use a tripod.
Get your camera's sensor as upright, vertically, as possible for all directions. A tripod with a spirit level is best for this.
Do lots of shots and overlap a lot - it makes it easier for the software to stitch. If your tripod head has markings, use them as accurately as possible.
Take an average light reading - then set up the camera in manual to use the same exposure settings for all shots.
PSE6 on WinXP, Pentax K10d...... and now a Canon G10.

Gallery
When a tripod isn't available.....use of a spirit level definitely helps. Also I use the rule of thirds grid on the screen on the back of my point&shoot. You can line up the horizon with one of the grid lines for a level horizon line.
Chas
Chas's Gallery
f/16 on a sunny day.....:)
13 posts Page 2 of 2

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