For those that have finally seen the light!
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Need help with reflective orange from mat. I know the noise is awful.

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jdaa,
I did the same thing to this picture as i did to the other one.

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Linda


Snowfall's Gallery
"struggling to learn"
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_DSC9667web-2.jpg (127.84 KiB) Viewed 1437 times


Took a stab at it in LR. Used the White Balance tool and found a neutral point off the shirt in the upper right corner where the RGB values were within 1% of each other. Then reduced orange saturation, using the cheek of the bottom wrestler, then upped the orange luminance a bit using the bottom wrestler's top as my reference point.
GeneVH

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Gene... that looks great! :biggrin:
~kimi~
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Gene, did you save that as a preset?? If so we could convert it to xml for her to use in ACR.
Thanks Kim!

Suzi:

No, I didn't save it as a preset. I usually adjust the white balance based on the particular shot, and then if there are several pictures shot under those same conditions, will do a sync in the LR Develop module and apply that to the remaining pictures, then check each one to make sure what I've applied works on them all, and make any adjustments if I need to. For basic photo processing I tend not to use a lot of presets.

For this particular one, I ended up using the person's shirt up in the top right corner as my neutral. I moved the eye dropper around until I got readings of approximately R=80.3%, G=79.2%, and B=79.4% In LR, the target neutral (at least according to Mikkel Aaland in his book "Lightroom2 Adventure" where I learned this) can be any spot where the RGB values are all within 1% of each other. I just as easily get the same result by picking targeting the black shorts to the left side of the picture. ACR handles things a bit differently and it doesn't seem to need to be a neutral gray (where the values are in the 60% target range). The rendering below used a spot off the black legging of our wrestler with the orange tank top. I poked around until I found a spot that measured R=12.9%, G=12.4%, and B=12.4%.

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The % measurements are seen at the bottom of the box that follows the eye dropper tool around in LR.

I then did a couple HSL adjustments. In Saturation I clicked the circle in the top left corner that allows you to adjust by selecting a point in the photo and dragging up or down. For Saturation, I used the cheek of the orange tank top wrestler and adjusted to eliminate some orange cast. The final number I ended up with here was Orange -20 and Red -2. Then I adjusted Luminance using a point on the orange tank top to Red +5 and Orange +12. These values are very similar for both renderings I did here.

I tried the same thing using ACR in PSE5, but it doesn't show the RGB color values as a %, but is using the 0-255 numbering scale, so this makes it a bit tougher but not impossible to do. Sticking to the same guideline I use for LR, if you can find RGB points with 2 units of each other for all points, it looks like it will work. ACR in CS3 works the same way, except when doing HSL adjustments you can't make the adjustments directly from the picture as in LR, but have to adjust the sliders individually. I was able to get the same results. With either version, PSE or CS, you have the option of applying the previous settings used to the next picture, or in CS you can save your settings as a preset if you desire, as you can in LR.

HTH...
GeneVH

My SmugMug
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Well it's a snowy day here in Ohio so I'm back to work on these pics.

Thanks so much for all the work you all have done. Wonderful information. I've written it down to go work on the orange mat pics.

I'm a little confused when it comes to the "previous conversion". Do I make the corrections in the first pic and then click on "previous conversion" and then click done? When I click "previous conversion" it changes my whole pic to look totally different.

Thank you again for all your work and I hope to be able to get my pics to look as simular as possible with my skill level.
And while we're at it...I'm awful at deciding what level of sharpening looks good. What is a good starting Unsharp Mask level for this photo? Thanks again.
Sharpening is a whole subject unto itself. Generally, any digital photo is going to need to some level of sharpening. How much depends on the shot itself. There are no hard and fast rules, but one thing you want to avoid is generating halos on the image. Push sharpening too far, and it becomes really noticeable and can ruin an otherwise good shot. Sharpening tends to work on edges within your photos, were differences in contrast can be the most marked. But push too far, and sharpening will start finding more and more edges. All sharpening should be done while viewing your photo at 100% sizing in order to see what its doing.

I have 2 basic sharpening methods that I use. One method is to remove the "hazy" effect that occurs in so many photos. I have 3 levels I choose from, again, depending on the subject matter. People photos and portraits generally don't require as much sharpening as landscapes and buildings. Photos with a lot of sharp edges can stand a bit more sharpening than those with softer edges within them.

My "Defog" settings are: Amounts of 10%, 15%, or 20%. Radius of 60 in all cases, and Threshold of 0. One of these settings will take care of any haziness you may see (and I'm not talking about real fog here). One thing that Scott Kelby suggests is also using what he terms a "fading" effect where the sharpening layer mode is changed to Luminosity from Normal. I'm pretty sure I read that in his "Adobe CS3 Book For Digital Photographers". The defog sharpening alone can make a dramatic difference in a photo.

Once I am done editing my shots, I then apply general sharpening. And this is where you can really overdrive it if you aren't careful. Again, depending on the subject matter, I may apply anywhere from 25% to 125% or more, with a Radius of 1.0, and Masking levels dependent on the subject matter of the photo. There are no hard and fast rules, other than not pushing too far with it. People and Portrait shots get much less sharpening than landscapes, buildings, and other similar subjects.
GeneVH

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